Chalk white and stone evoke the stark beauty of the Cycladic islands. Meanwhile, the kitchen hums along at a more refined level than many of the grandmotherly Greek spots that proliferate around Washington. Extra-silky taramosalata os sided with griddled pita that could stand alone as a nibble. Rectangles of grilled halloumi, the tangy Cypriot cheese, sit atop perfectly cooked beets. Moussaka gets a makeover with paper-thin sliced zuchini, potato, and eggplant layered with beef and finished with an elegant bechamel.
Desserts are also worth paying attention to - especially bougatsa, a baked phyllo creation oozing warm custard.
Also great: Greek salad; White beans with lemon and olive oil; Kefalograviera and sesame-Feta saganaki; Grilled whole fish; Lamb shank with orzo.
