An unlikely beauty in a drab office building, Nostos (Greek for “homecoming”) is at once lively and serene, with a gray-on-white color scheme that conjures an Old World fishing village. Weekday lunches attract iPhone-tapping suits along with neighborhood retirees who ask for servers by name. At dinner, a starry romance takes over.
Rustic Mediterranean entrées and mezedes (shared small plates) showcase superior ingredients but don’t overshoot with complicated flavors or newfangled preparations. Still, we haven’t tasted anything here that feels complacent.